West Country Day 1: Bristol

At the start of December, I took a long weekend to explore Bristol and Bath, two cities in the southwest region of the UK unofficially known as the west country. These two towns in particular border an area known as the Cotswolds, known for charming quintessential British villages. I only traveled along the main train lines, so I unfortunately didn't venture further into the rural areas but I did very much enjoy my time in each of these cities!

I started my trip late on a Saturday morning, making my way to the train station in Leicester to begin the first leg of the journey through Birmingham. Apparently that was a very popular trip that weekend (which I guess I could have anticipated after enjoying the Frankfurt Christmas Market so much) since I barely squeezed onto the train. I spent the journey standing shoulder-to-shoulder with fellow travelers packed into a vestibule between cars. On later stops, we left some people waiting on the platforms since there was no space to spare.

Luckily, the train from Birmingham to Bristol was much quieter. I had a row to myself and spent the relaxing ride reading some Jane Austen and watching the countryside rush past.

Once we arrived, I briefly admired the station's historic architecture before heading toward a steeple which I assumed was near the city center.

I had done some research on the city and had an idea of different landmarks and such that I was excited to check out. After walking for a few minutes, I found myself in front of St. Mary Redcliffe: an iconic church in Bristol, not near the city center nor on my list.

I was pleasantly surprised to find a Christmas event going on, so I stepped in and ended up spending a few hours admiring creatively decorated trees, listening to a beautiful festive choir, and enjoying a delicious mince pie and tea. It was a fantastic, albeit unexpected, start to the trip.

Afterward I hit the road again, this time correcting my path toward the city center. I walked along the canal, taking in the colorful buildings and varied restaurants and pubs along the path.

I eventually reached the St. Nicholas Market, a bustling flea market full of eclectic stalls boasting just about anything you could think of. Important note: despite the name this is not a Christmas market but a standing street market sprawling across several blocks (both in & outdoor) in the center of Bristol.

I enjoyed exploring the market for a while before heading out for an area of Bristol known as Stokes on Croft, distinguished by its impressive, vibrant street art. This was probably my favorite area of the city. I wandered around for quite a while, taking in the artwork as the sun set. As some of you may be familiar, infamous street artist Banksy is from Bristol and their art can be seen around the city. I made sure to see as many of their pieces as I could along my wanderings.

After enjoying Stokes on Croft I started working my way back through the city center toward an area called Wapping Wharf, where my hostel for the night was located. Along my path, I passed through one of the main Bristol shopping centers and stopped at the Christmas Market for dinner. As I ate, I was serenaded by a Christmas Moose with a strong German accent. The Bristol market reminded me of a very scaled-down version of the Birmingham market- it was cute and festive, but I didn't spend very long there.

I passed several other landmarks in the dark as I continued to the hostel, including a few more of Banksy's works and the Bristol cathedral. Once I checked in, I warmed up for a bit and then took a walk along the wharf before calling it a night.

The next day, I was excited to see more while the sun was shining and got an early start. It was a damp, chilly morning (classic English weather) and after a quick breakfast I headed for the Clifton Downs neighborhood to see the towering suspension bridge. The fall colors were definitely brighter and more beautiful against the gray sky. I really enjoyed this area as well, the view from the bridge was lovely and the neighborhood was quaint but pretty.

I made my way through the town toward another landmark: Cabot Tower. I climbed lots (and lots) of stairs, but the view from the top was worth it. It was very interesting to see the city and all of the landmarks I'd been touring laid out below me. Again, the autumn colors were gorgeous.

After climbing the tower, I headed back toward the wharf, again passing the looming Bristol cathedral and city council building.

As I visited a few more Banksy pieces, I also checked out the SS Great Britain from a bit closer (you could spot it from some of the lookouts I'd passed earlier). The massive, mid-1800's era steamship was also impressive!

I was a bit cold from all my wandering on the chilly morning, so I decided to spend my last few hours in the city at the M Shed: a museum all about Bristol and its history, both distant and contemporary. I appreciated the opportunity to learn more about the neighborhoods and sights I experienced since the previous afternoon. The museum was very unique in its eclectic mix of art, interactive or informational pieces, and historic artifacts. It captured an insightful image of the people of Bristol, past and present.

After the M Shed, I was returning to my hostel to collect my bags but decided to step into the Arnolfini art gallery first- and I'm very glad I did! The first two floors were devoted to an exhibit by Bharti Kher called The Body is a Place.

The pieces were contemporary and quite thought provoking, so I was feeling very reflective when I arrived at the top floor which was devoted to an exhibition called Journey of the Mind. This series of exhibits offered a unique perspective on mindfulness, through multi- and mixed-media pieces offering insights to Sikh teaching and opportunities to interact and practice the ideas presented. Altogether, it was a refreshing experience and I continued on to the next leg of my journey with greater presence as a result.

Once I picked up my bags from the hostel, I went to the train station and started the quick trip from Bristol to Bath. I'll continue my journey and exploration of that city in my next post, my day in Bristol was chock-full of small but meaningful adventures with the unplanned ones being some of the highlights. It was great getting to know this vibrant city in the winter, I hope I may have an opportunity to return during a different season!